$15 Keyless Entry
If you’re one of the lucky people to have keyless entry installed on your car from factory, but can’t seem to either find a replacement key fob, or can’t find one that works with your specific car, here is the means of adding a cheap $15 unit to your car using only 4 wires.
Firstly you must make sure you have keyless entry installed from the factory in your car. Remove the driver side rear speaker panel “Google is your friend”. You will see a bunch of relays and a silver box mounted right in front of the rear speaker. It will say OMRON on it. See pic. That is the stock keyless entry system. You need to unplug that unit and remove it. You will be tapping into the wires from that plug.


Before you go cutting any wires though you need to buy the unit first. Go on Amazon and search for “keyless entry car” and look for a unit that looks like the one pictured here. There are multiple sellers that have these and you can find them on ebay also. They are basic universal keyless entry systems that work on almost any car “IF” you know how to wire them in. They also usually have functionality to pop the trunk “which ours can’t without adding a popper”, roll the windows up “again ours can’t”, Two things you can add is the ability top flash the turns or honk the horn. Unfortunately both of those options are not OEM functionality and not contained within the wiring connector we will be working with. You would need to run wires for both the horn and turns in order to achieve this and I will not be covering it here.
If you purchase the same unit as I pictured then the only wires you will be using from the unit are the two whites, the two yellows, the red and the black. The rest can be taped off or removed. First things first you need to combine the two yellow wires and the black wires. I cut all three wires about half the length of what is there, crimp all three together into one side of the crimp and then the extra piece of black on the other end. Our oem keyless system works on ground triggers so we need to ground the 2 yellow common wires. Crimp on a ring terminal and ground this wire to one of the bolts that hold the bracket the oem keyless was mounted to.
Now on to the stock connector, the connector is a 20 pin connector, 10 pins on top, 10 pins on bottom. When looking at the back of the connector, where the wires come out, pin #1 will be a black/blue wire. At the end of that row will be a red/green wire. That is your 12v constant wire, you need to tap/splice the red power wire of the keyless unit into that wire. On the second row of that connector, right below the Black/Blue wire, pin 11 will be a red/green wire. Next to that in pin 12 will be a brown/white wire. That is the lock trigger. That wire needs to connect to the solid white wire.
For unlocking we need to use 2 wires as the driver/passenger locks unlock separately. Next to the brown/white wire you tapped into for locking will be a brown/blue and then yellow/black wires. You need to tap the white/black wire of the keyless unit into both of those wires.



Now you should have all of your wires connected. Now you can plug in the unit and test things out. If the car does not lock or unlock then double check your wiring. You can test the car’s locking/unlocking functionality by applying ground to one of the lock/unlock wires. Also be sure that the led on the remote lights up when you hit a button, if not check the battery. If the lock/unlocking on the car works, your wiring is all good, then you may have been unlucky and got a defective unit, Amazon returns for the win. I have used these units for years now and rarely have had an issue with them going out. Even if they do, they are cheap enough to swap a new one in
For those wanting some more advanced wiring, here is a table showing what each wire does on the connector. Most of the rest of the wires are inputs so it can delay locking or prevent it “leaving your key in the ignition or the door is open” and signals from the ETACS.
Connector E-37 | ||
Pin | Color | Function |
1 | B-L | KEY REMINDER |
2 | R-G | DOOR SWITCH |
3 | ||
4 | ||
5 | ||
6 | BR-Y | DRIVERS LOCKED OR UNLOCKED CONDITION |
7 | ||
8 | ||
9 | L-B | IGNITION 12V+ SWITCHED |
10 | R-B | 12v CONSTANT FOOT LIGHTS |
11 | R-G | DOME LIGHT |
12 | BR/W | DRIVER LOCK |
13 | BR/L | PASS UNLOCK |
14 | Y/B | DRIVER UNLOCK |
15 | L-Y | ETACS |
16 | ||
17 | ||
18 | ||
19 | ||
20 | B | GROUND |